northern exposure

after the formalities of crossing into india, our first destination in northern india is varanasi.

the ganges river -- what can i say -- you see it, you feel it.

i am happy i got to see it.

we went for sunrise but the most resonating was at dusk for evening prayer. the whole town with pilmgrims from all over come. all the ghats, for as long as you eyes can see are filled with people doing their daily evening prayer. we took a boat ride down the banks and saw many cremations once again. we rode back to the main area and lit floating candle/flower offerings and let them go into the ganges... we also visited sarnath to the place where buddha gave his first dharma.

then it was agra.

first stop - agra fort which was very impressive - so many beautiful details and silhouettes and massing that was incredible.

and after, we made it to the taj.

we went at sunset and i was not ready for such an influx of indians curious about us and wanting photos, photos, photos with foreigners... what a reverse. the taj is a wonder, intricate and bold both from afar and up close.

next was a 7 hour jeep drive inland to a small village called tordi garh.

what a gem.

a small village with people and children so bright with joy!

we stayed at a home but a beautiful one at that, with farm animals of all kinds and family so open and generous. it is done in shocking contrasting colors (a color palette worth reinventing at some point for sure)... the women of the household treated us to view elaborate wedding albums, saris, did henna tattoos, cooking etc... the stars were bright bright this night as you looked over the quiet homes below and we spent the night taking in this night sky whilst bollywood music played on and on... a camel ride was due too. we rode through the village, up to the sand dunes and perched above to watch the hazy sun set with masala chai in hand.

border crossing

time to meet my group for tour of Nepal and rajasthan...

i caught an early flight out of mumbai into Kathmandu and descended into the mountains for a few days. nepal is a beautiful country and the people are as well... i could feel a shift in temperament from mumbai -- everything shifted every so slightly -- a little more mellower and gentler... it was a nice ease up from the past week. we spent a couple days in Kathmandu and visited a Hindu temple were it is local custom to cremate the bodies once you die. the temple and surrounding grounds had a resounding impact on me as well as the chance the observe a few cremations whilst we were there. typically it is the eldest son/male to light the fire of the cremation and for this he has to shave his head. the whole family stays with the body until it is completely cremated which usually takes about 3 hours. the ashes flow into the river and become one with the universe again. they do keep one part of the human body intact so that it can be buried. for men, it is the heart and for women, it is the hips. the grounds were filled with sages and swamis and monkeys... we also visited a Buddhist temple, bohantan. it is a massive, grounding, white temple that cuts through the sky so vividly. all around is a small village and tea houses. the low rise wall surrounding the temple is cladded with prayer wheels. you are suggested to walk around the perimeter 3 times before entering up in the lower levels of the temple. 3 is quite an auspicious number in both Hindu and Buddhism as well as many faiths of the world. i found a smaller temple where monks were giving blessings so i quietly stepped inside and did a ceremonial blessing with the monk -- i lit an incense, knelt down whilst he poured a blessed ointment into the palms of my hands which i then let fall onto the crown of my head as he did a prayer.

from Kathmandu, we went onto the chitwan national reserve. the ride to this place was all about us against these monolithic mountains. the reserve is in a small town that felt like the wild wild west, Nepalese style. at the end of the main drag, was my favorite place. a riverbed area looking onto the rivers with elephants and camels roaming and tiny little shack cafes run by families that would live behind. at dawn and dusk, this is where you would find me. nights in Nepal, have been about world cup too -- so cool to see such a sport unite a world. chitwan was all about elephants. we did elephant rides, baths and went to the breeding center. we also saw a stick dancing performance done by about 25 young Nepalese boys - the coordination and energy was so great to see (and of course, fire sticks always mesmerize you too!)

our next stop in Nepal was lumbini - a master plan of temples and gardens that sprung from the birth place of Buddha. we took bikes and traveled into town and around all the temples and to the the birth place of Buddha. the moment you walked into the gardens of this place, you could feel an overwhelming sense of calmness come over me. a group of young women monks were praying/chanting... all dressed in a blush pink, knelt on the grass in full concentration to pray/celebrate to Buddha. i had not expected to see this place. i am very happy that i did.

next morning was an early start as we had to do the border crossing from Nepal back into India.

we walked through the small juncture and our bags were taken separately by rickshaw until we got to the India side. our time in Nepal was fantastic and the political climate had subsided dramatically since may so we were able to enjoy it without any interruptions. again, i could feel that subtle shift as soon as my feet hit the ground on Indian soil.

inside out - part II

inside out - part I

coming off a 12 hour train ride, i was definitely not ready for the impact of dadar station in Mumbai.

bring on the Mumbai madness... Mumbai was originally made up of seven islands that comprised a fishing village and now is all "filled in" --- in every way. I was greeted by my uncle's friend, Tim who lives there with his wife, Shimona and lovely one year old daughter, Zara. It was fantastic to be brought in to the city this way... seeing it from the inside out. Shimona's family is quite a modern Indian family and her open heart and open mind was refreshing in every way. Once Tim and I found each other, we hopped into a rickshaw and made our way to Versona. Coming into their home, I was greeted by house full of laughter and commotion.. and granted this was about 11:30pm. It felt so great to be in it. And yes, even though it was late, the night had just begun. And this would be my Mumbai all week -- lazy chill days to deal with the heat and full on nights that would last at the earliest until 3am...

It was amazing I got to experience the city with these new friends, within the family. I really got the chance to get immersed in the life there. Nighttime was time where the household was filled with smiles, laughter, friends, loved ones all around. Shimona's family is Indian Nepalese and I was lucky enough to meet her grandmother who is this strong spirited, lovely woman with the face of the moon. Coming to understand interactions with friends and family etc... it is customary to call elders "auntie" or "uncle" instead by name, as this is seen as more endearing.

One my first day, we trotted around Coloba which is most popular for foreigners -- streets are lined with bazaars of trinkets to your liking and we stopped in the infamous Leopold's for a pulpy, mango juice. Then marine drive, gateway to india and quick drive-by Haji Ali.

One night, I had the chance to go with Tim and Shimona to her auntie and uncle's house for dinner in the small village across the waterway. They have known Shimona for a long, long time and Shimona actually would teach their son when he was younger. He had just finished up school and Shimona and a group of friends bought the son a new bicycle to ride around Mumbai, as it is much more efficient and economical than other means of transportation. To get to their house, we had to go down to the local fishing village and catch a ferry across the waterway to the other side where housing is much more affordable. The fishing village was hustle and bustle -- very very narrow streets with aromas that were so intense I did not imagine they could exist. The fisherman live quite humble lives but I am told they are all quite wealthy and this can be spotted during special occasions when the wives come out adorned in gold. We then get on the ferry and uncle meets us on the other side to walk us to their home. Uncle cooked a chicken curry and made me a special dish, less spicy than the rest. It was a big night for uncle, he was having "full enjoy" which meant he was able to enjoy his whiskey in celebration of our company. It was a lovely night... we ate and laughed the night away. I could see and feel the love in their hearts and they were embracing life for all it has. It was a great night.

Getting around the city is a task within itself. At times, it can take up to 2-3 hours so you need to schedule your day well. Another thing is whatever you want, whatever you need.. you can get it delivered to your home -- even a single cigarette, up until recently. Not even NYC can beat that.

Got in some music too -- we went to see a band called Rajasthan Roots play at this swanky supper club of sorts. They would use some traditional musical instruments mixed with modern -- the main guy would use a flute/string piece that sounded like an infusing electronic sound all on its own as well as flat, stone pieces that vibrated through the space... extraordinary!!! That night I got to bed a little after 3:30am and was up by 5:30am to get a morning full of sites in before the sun started heating up the city... And all these stops, were more off the beaten path... First was the Chor Bazaar which goes from 3am to noon on Fridays that is filled with mainly electronics and in between all those used up switchboards, you can find some treasures. The monsoon rains had just started the night before, so it was a mud bath. Then, we were onto the Banganga reservoir up in Malabar Hill. This was so special for me. It is reservoir tank nestled in this little village up in the hills. It is used for spiritual ceremonies, daily washing and of course just for the sheer pleasure, especially appreciated by the children. Heading back to the city, we stopped in a couple galleries and then the The Orient ballroom. In it's day, it was a lavish ballroom filled with socialites but today, it is a dilapidated building, condemned by the city and filled with small business outposts. Nevertheless, it was a stunning space with the light and shadows playing against each other.

We talk about cities in terms of a love/hate relationship and I would say, Mumbai could definitely be one of them... My time there was one to remember. Tim, Shimona and the friends and family that surrounded me during my stay were wonderful and open and giving - I have so much to take with me from it.

go go goa

off to goa.

it is the state above kerala known to india for its beautiful beaches and a getaway for foreigners and indians alike... needing some time to unwind, beach time as well as desires to completely go all out and find full moon parties, trance raves, hippies all around in its prime time... this time of year however is low season so the beaches are quiet and mainly filled with locals.  there are many towns up and down the coast each with its own vibe and catering to what you are after.

i tried the north and south.

3 days in each.

it being low season, both spots had a more chill, laided back vibe.. perfect for me to get my reading binge addressed. wind up bird chronicle by murokami and 9 stories by jd salinger where on my hit list.

in the north, it was vagator. 

town situated up on the hilltop with lookout to cliffs and beach below.  came to know local internet cafe owner and his beautiful wife who by the end of the time, came sweet friends of mine and took me to mz south destination.  here i spent days at the water and lengthy breakfasts and dinners at goa alcove.

in the south, it was palolem.

town is much more rustic set within a cove, many of the hotels are eco-friendly huts.. my choice was bhatki kutir. and it was lovely.  they are eco-friendly, all organic foods and a serene way about it that made me feel like i had all the time in the world... and of course, i fell in love with the resort´s dog - bhakti - gorgeous, fierce, sweet - she was my shadow for those few days, slept outside my hut each night and welcomed me in the mornings, she was my sidekick and i could not be happier.

goa was my chill time (especially before the mumbai madness...)

go go goa... a lovely little piece of earth.