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coming off the island high...

deep smack into BKK was a shock to the system - arriving at 1am in the center of it all, i had to get my wits about me as i landed in some sort of a video game. luckily, we found a great guesthouse to retreat to - it was off Rambrutti and called Lamphu. Next time however, if I found myself in transit here, i would stay at the Israeli Connection / Secret Garden. At the street, it has a nondescript juice stand with restaurant but if you peek around and go upstairs, they offer rooms in the building out back with clean, modern amenities and even free wifi and luggage storage (which i always like to know where i can drop that extra baggage if need be). BKK is the big city with the hyped up area for backpackers. i knew it would be a short transit here and i wanted to meet up with a couple friends for one reason or another are based here in BKK for a bit of time. BKK is much more enjoyable and better traveled during the setting sun hours. One night, we were venturing out to the suburbs of Sukhumvit 49 so we were up for a bit of adventure to get there. we first boarded the local boat taxi that took us down the back canals into Siam for a mere 9THB and then meandered our way through the labyrinth of Siam to find the sky train out to Thong Lo. We met up with my friend and a group of locals and tried out Tease, RCA club row and Obsession. Obsession was a new novelty for me - a lady boy bar - that is on the list of things to do and see in BKK. So intriguing, from afar these lady boys are very beautiful but up close are all man. On another night, we went to Metro Lounge which had an open air terrace and filled with Thai hipsters - too cool for school - and with a style I very much enjoyed. My expiration time in BKK was just about out (only 3 days) - i think that was just the right amount of time to get some shopping in at the markets and have time to play in this surreal video game arena.

After getting our fill, we ventured northbound to Chiangmai.
The city itself has not much draw or ambiance - feels industrial - although there were two extremely amazing experiences i would not trade for the world. Our guesthouse here was a find too. Gap House is situated off a side street in the old part and it was a little oasis. It was set amongst tropical gardens and the bungalows had an eclectic mix of wood furniture and artwork. All the travelers here French. We had arrived on a public holiday so on that evening, as strolling down and popping into temple after temple - we came to one with a full celebration in progress. The offerings for the temple are made up of incense, flower and candle which you would carry between your palms as you walked around the temple 3x in a clockwise direction. After, the devotees proceeded to a back garden that set my heart ablaze. The garden was like it fell from the heavens. A gold statue of Buddha was set in front of a leafy tree and on the grassy lawn below, it was consumed with candlelight set in clay pots. Monks floated in between all the light - elegant, saffron guides tending to the candlelight with so much devotion and attention, nothing stirred them away from that. It was one of the rare, magical moments i felt so alive and thankful. Thankful to be there and be in the presence of such an elegant ceremony - it was unexpected and that i think made it even that more transformative. We visited the Doi Suthep temple up on the hill as well as the Tiger Kingdom. I am still torn about the tigers - not certain it was such an aware decision to go but my curiosity got the best of me, and I guess in going, it educated me about socially responsible tourism. The tigers are majestic creatures and those eyes, those eyes felt like they pierced right through me. The 2nd experience that made Chiangmai well worth the visit was the Patara Elephant Farm. Their logo is extinction is forever. It is a family run establishment and the people were some of the most loving people I have met and they care for these creatures which such gentleness it was very humbling. The program is basically "to own an elephant for a day". With that, we get educated about the history of elephants and the impact they have in Thai culture, health issues, health inspection of the elephant, feeding, bathing, grooming and then a trek to the waterfalls. My elephant was Plouy and her trainer was Kao. The first step is making a connection with the elephant. We learned how to acknowledge, approach and connect with the elephant. The elephant has to accept you and sometimes like all of us, do not feel so up to interaction and can become quite moody, especially if it is a pregnant one. The head trainer did an initial observation of all of us and paired us up with the elephant that is most fitting to our persona. The safest place to be is right close to the elephant's eyes - the trainers always want you close to the animal rather than arm length's away so that i guess both creatures feel safe with one another. Plouy's eyes felt like they had seen the world over and understand some sort of secret. The bathing and grooming was actually quite exhausting and I did not expect to be sore from the ride either, for days after... funny looking back, when they picked us up in the morning - all they kept asking was to make sure we had eaten our breakfast for the day... To get on was a feat as well. I tried the front approach where you tap the elephant's head twice, hold on behind the ears, and climb up the front of the trunk. First time I fell. Second time I made it up there (without any bit of grace). Best spot to ride is right behind her head, knees bent backward and feet tucked in behind the ears to navigate Plouy. The climb was steep and narrow. And of course, Plouy leaded the pack. She moved with such agility and grace and a steadiness that i felt so safe it was unnerving. The paths up the hillside were only about a foot wide, big enough for one elephant foot to land and then there was a drop off down the hill. Phew...
We had a set of commands to help us along as well:
By = Go
How = Stop
Jana = Don't
Didi = Good Girl
Plouy was breathtaking and warmed my heart.

Ready to move on, we traveled North again - up into the hills, along a winding road where the clouds settled so low, they were resting in and between the green hills. We came to the hill village of Pai. Pai has a vibe that works with my palette ever so nicely. Small but filled with artists, musicians, hippies, spiritual seekers alike. Live blues and jazz playing the night away, every night and cafes offering up all sort of whimisical tea concotions. Wall art is scattered throughout the town - the graphics are visually pop and sweet in content and execution. In the surrounding area, we biked to many a waterfall and hot springs. Mor Paeng Waterfall was a favorite. And riding in the countryside, that countryside, with layers and layers of green, lush green - idyllic. As we traversed down the many roads, it felt as if all of them magically looped around and kept bringing us back to the energy of Pai. I could stay here for an extended time. I could feel the inspiration it could give me and the creative energies it would harness. Breakfasts at Almost Famous are an excellent way to start the day and settling in at the Witching Well - with its veg juices and food are outright delicious. I would like to take the time, next time and try out the Tam Wua Forest Monastery and maybe even have a go at Reiki... why not! The groove of those who have come here and have chosen to stay seems like they have created quite a wonderful life for themselves. It is a good mix of all and nothing here. A piece of Pai is almost perfect.

Comments

[Michael]

lar,

i'm loving your photos of the elephants. reading about your time with piouy brought a tear to my eye. knowing you have had this amazing, profound experience with these wise and gentle souls makes my heart swell...it is filled with happiness for you. i can't think of anything better. i am so happy for you and proud of you and love you so much. miss you!

xoxo,

m

[Anonymous]

amazing lar!!!! how happy and full of joy being
in contact with the noble and wise elephants - what a treat. you convey the joy and laughter
and connection with these beautiful creatures.
wonder your elephant will always remember you.
all the dialog and selection of photos are so
embracing. it must take some time for you to
compose and put it all together to share with all of us - this is a real treat!!!
with all the love to stay safe and well and enjoy!!! dm